Originally posted December 23, 2006
All the best wishes of the Season.
Some people have asked us about food in Bratislava. So far it has been quite good. We have easy access to groceries. There is a Tesco hypermarket just across the street. Tesco is a large British chain and a “hypermarket” is a large supermarket. They have a wide variety of groceries, but it is always very crowded, with long lines and rather dour workers at the checkout stands. There is also an old fashioned butcher store in the ground floor of our apartment. It is old fashioned in two ways: one, it still has butchers who wait on you and cut meat to order and two, it has the style of Russian stores where you order what you want, then go and pay at a central cashier and then go back with the slip showing you paid to pick up your purchase.
We are also next to the Stara Trznica or “Old Market”, which has vegetable and fruit stalls, flower stalls and several bread, pastry, wine, and other stalls. Think of a small version of the Pike Place Market. We frequently shop at a smaller grocery, called Teta, which has better baked goods and is not as crowded as Tesco.
We also occasionally go to Carrefour, a very large French chain at a nearby shopping center. It is definitely up market from Tesco, is larger and carries more and better items. However it is a tram ride away so we don’t go there very often.
Our biggest problem has been learning the Slovak names of various items we want to buy. Eggs, (vajce), milk (mlieko) , and bread (chlieb) are easy: you just pick them off the shelves. Butter (maslo) and cheese (syr) were more difficult since you had to figure out which small package was butter and what kind of butter. Getting the names of cheeses down was also complex. However the biggest problem was flour and sugar. Each came in various varieties, such as finely ground, rye flour, whole wheat flour, etc. Sugar was confectioners, coffee sugar, brown sugar, baking sugar, etc. I ended up accidentally buying corn flour, which actually works pretty well for flouring meat before you cook it. I am not so sure about baking.
We find that we go out to eat much more frequently than we do in Seattle. Most restaurants are very reasonably priced and there are probably at least 50 restaurants within easy walking distance of our flat. Most of them are quite good, with a variety of cuisines available. This time of year we have been going to the Christmas Markets a lot. These are stalls set up in the two main squares in Bratislava. This is a tradition of Central Europe. It is very big in Vienna and parts of Germany. There have been Christmas Markets in Bratislava since 1993, shortly after the fall of the Eastern Bloc. The City representatives were inspired by other similar markets, but with a distinct Slovak twist. There is a bigger focus on food in Bratislava than in Vienna. Favorites are Ciganska, which is Gypsy or Roma grilled pork or chicken steak grilled with onions, Kapustnica, which is the red-colored paprika and saurkraut soup flavored with meat or sausages and our favorite, Pleskavica, which is a beef patty grilled on a charcoal grill and served on bread cooked on the grill. The proprietor was insulted when I called it a hamburger since he said it was much better than a hamburger. He was right.
The main drink available is a hot mulled wine, which tastes particularly good on a cold winter evening. They also have Medovina, which is a hot mead or honey wine. They also have various Slovakian pastries which are traditional this time of the year. We have our choice of Lokse which is a thin potato crepe filled with chocolate, almonds or poppy seeds or a cherry and poppy seed strudel.
The last few days there have been live carp booths in front of Tesco and at the Christmas Markets. The proprietors of the booths scoop up the flopping carp, weigh it and give it to the next in the long line waiting for the carp. Fried carp is a typical Slovakian dish served on Christmas Eve. In lieu of that we are going out to one of our favorite restaurants.
We wish you a Merry Christmas, or in Slovakian, Vesele Vianoce a Novy Rok praje!
Chuck and Susan Routh
Saturday, December 23, 2006
Monday, November 20, 2006
Chuck and Susan go to the Spa
Originally Posted November 20, 2006
When we learned that we would be living in Slovakia, one of the things we wanted to do was to go to a spa. Slovakia, and indeed most of Central Europe, is famous for their thermal water and spas. Budapest was built on hot springs areas. The Czech Republic and Austria are famous for their spas. Slovakia also has many, many spas which were famous for centuries. Since we had been hot springs addicts since we lived in Japan, this would be a rare opportunity to see some of the most elegant hot springs in the world.
Shortly after we arrived here we started researching and reading up on spas here. We discovered that most spas were run on a medical model. You chose the spa depending on your ailment. If you had arthritis you went to one spa and if you had intestinal problems you went to another spa. You got a prescription from your doctor and went to the appropriate spa, usually for three weeks, with the cost entirely covered by state sponsored insurance. As you might suspect this is a system which is subject to abuse. A free three week vacation with the whole thing covered by insurance. However there was a downside. The spas were encouraged, either impliciitly or explicitly, not to make the visit too pleasant. The hotels were rather grim and the food reminescent of steam tables and school lunch rooms. The treatments were somewhat bizarre to say the least. Gas injection, electrotherapy, drinking gallons of mineral water and all sorts of water therapy such as underwater massage with a high pressure hose were just a few of the "therapies" used.
I thought this was a holdover from the Communist days and it is in part. However Austria has a similar system. Slovakia determined to end the abuse and as of Jan. 1, 2005, the system changed radically. The free three week vacations ended. One could still get a prescription for specific treatments but it did not cover the hotel, restaurants, etc. Also the spas completed a privatization program.
Some of the spas have seen the handwriting on the wall and have changed dramatically. They have upgraded the spa areas and the hotels and have gone more to the spa model of getting rid of stress and concentrating on enjoyment. None have done it more than Hotel Aphrodite in Rajecke Teplice in northern Slovakia in the mountains. Even the new name suggests a change: in Greek mythology, Aphrodite is the goddess of love, beauty and sexual rapture. That sounded good.
So we went to our neighborhood travel agent and asked about reservations. She checked and came back later and said that there was not a room to be had for the next two months. Not to be thwarted, we looked at their website http://www.spa.sk/ and discovered that they had various "annex" hotels which were in the vicinity. After going back and forth a bit, we decided on Hotel Velke Fatra which was described as having a glassed in walk way to the actual spa. So finally the day came and we set off by rail for Zelina in northern Slovakia. Several hours later we arrived and quickly changed to a small two car railroad which went to Rajecke Teplice. It went through some industrial areas, then farmland and finally up a lovely mountain valley where we stopped at the spa town. We saw a nice lake, some interesting trails and a parklike area to walk through. We saw the elegant Hotel Aphrodite and finally saw a sign for the Velke Fatra. We kept walking, until we were out of the park and saw the bus station. There across the street was our hotel. Unlike Aphrodite, our hotel had not been remodeled and was rather a dump. Its only redeeming feature was that it was cheap.
We checked in, got our schedule of spa treatments we had signed up for, got our card for dinner and our card for breakfast and went to our small room and unpacked. Then we went searching for items which were listed as coming with the room, such as a bathrobe for going to the spa and a hair dryer.We got those finally and walked around town a bit. We then went back, changed to swim suits and headed across the elevated walkway. We had to figure out the system for the locker room. We handed in what we called our "dance cards", got a key to the locker and a sheet. You then go in, put your robe in the locker and go through to the spa part. It was really quite spectacular. It had two very large stainless steel pools. One was pretty warm and the other a bit cooler for swimming. Both had various jets and waterfalls which changed about every ten minutes. There would be jets on your back, then current parts of the pool where the current would push you around. The trick became to get to the place where the back massage jets were when they came on. It was sort of like the kids game where you go around the chairs until the music stops. We did this, interspersed with sauna, steam baths, aromatherapy rooms, wraps in sheets and wool blankets, etc. for the next few days. Every once in a while we would have a treatment such as a whirlpool bath (like a big hot tub), a magic massage bed (which involves you getting wrapped in a sheet and blanket and lying on a cot which then began to massage your back with large rollers which would go up and down your back and legs), and a "Biarritz" bath, which involves getting in this large tub, naked, while this young lady turns on jets (153 of them, which exercise your meridians). The Biarritz bath looked at first like some sort of strange water boarding torture, but it felt very good. We also had two massages each. By the time we got through all this, all of our stress was gone.
Dinner was back at the Velke Fatra. They explained in German, Slovak, French and several other languages, but not English, the system for dinner, which is that you order dinner for the next day that evening. Since we had just arrived, we got what they had, which was a slice of ham and vegetables rolled in chicken, potatoes, vegetables, salad bar. It was not bad. Little did we suspect that it was to be our best dinner the whole time we were there. We had ordered "half board" which meant we had paid for dinner and breakfast and were on our own for lunch. We also ordered a bottle of quite good wine for about $6. We got the menu for the next night and made our choice. Unfortunately they sounded much better in German or Slovak than they turned out to be.
Rajecke Tepliceis is quite close to the Czech and Polish borders and not far from the Austrian border. About two thirds of the visitors are foreign. From languages I heard, I would say that the majority of the visitors were from Germany, with Poland a second. We never heard anyone speaking English as their native tongue. Still we got along pretty well and managed to understand most of what was meant through patching together various languages.
We had mixed weather, with a fair amount of drizzle. It was not nearly as cold as we expected. We did see snow on peaks around there and the snow level was not much higher up the hills than our elevation. However we got a chance to walk around in the area. One day we went to a local seafood restaurant, called the Fisherman's Bastion, for lunch. It was on an island in a lake. We had good trout,which is a local specialty from the mountain streams.
Charles and Susan Routh
Namestie SNP 23
81101 Bratislava 1
Slovakia
Tel: +421 9/11335672 (Charles)
+421 9/14 220 832 (Susan)
email: crouth@gsblaw.com
charlesrouth@chello.sk
When we learned that we would be living in Slovakia, one of the things we wanted to do was to go to a spa. Slovakia, and indeed most of Central Europe, is famous for their thermal water and spas. Budapest was built on hot springs areas. The Czech Republic and Austria are famous for their spas. Slovakia also has many, many spas which were famous for centuries. Since we had been hot springs addicts since we lived in Japan, this would be a rare opportunity to see some of the most elegant hot springs in the world.
Shortly after we arrived here we started researching and reading up on spas here. We discovered that most spas were run on a medical model. You chose the spa depending on your ailment. If you had arthritis you went to one spa and if you had intestinal problems you went to another spa. You got a prescription from your doctor and went to the appropriate spa, usually for three weeks, with the cost entirely covered by state sponsored insurance. As you might suspect this is a system which is subject to abuse. A free three week vacation with the whole thing covered by insurance. However there was a downside. The spas were encouraged, either impliciitly or explicitly, not to make the visit too pleasant. The hotels were rather grim and the food reminescent of steam tables and school lunch rooms. The treatments were somewhat bizarre to say the least. Gas injection, electrotherapy, drinking gallons of mineral water and all sorts of water therapy such as underwater massage with a high pressure hose were just a few of the "therapies" used.
I thought this was a holdover from the Communist days and it is in part. However Austria has a similar system. Slovakia determined to end the abuse and as of Jan. 1, 2005, the system changed radically. The free three week vacations ended. One could still get a prescription for specific treatments but it did not cover the hotel, restaurants, etc. Also the spas completed a privatization program.
Some of the spas have seen the handwriting on the wall and have changed dramatically. They have upgraded the spa areas and the hotels and have gone more to the spa model of getting rid of stress and concentrating on enjoyment. None have done it more than Hotel Aphrodite in Rajecke Teplice in northern Slovakia in the mountains. Even the new name suggests a change: in Greek mythology, Aphrodite is the goddess of love, beauty and sexual rapture. That sounded good.
So we went to our neighborhood travel agent and asked about reservations. She checked and came back later and said that there was not a room to be had for the next two months. Not to be thwarted, we looked at their website http://www.spa.sk/ and discovered that they had various "annex" hotels which were in the vicinity. After going back and forth a bit, we decided on Hotel Velke Fatra which was described as having a glassed in walk way to the actual spa. So finally the day came and we set off by rail for Zelina in northern Slovakia. Several hours later we arrived and quickly changed to a small two car railroad which went to Rajecke Teplice. It went through some industrial areas, then farmland and finally up a lovely mountain valley where we stopped at the spa town. We saw a nice lake, some interesting trails and a parklike area to walk through. We saw the elegant Hotel Aphrodite and finally saw a sign for the Velke Fatra. We kept walking, until we were out of the park and saw the bus station. There across the street was our hotel. Unlike Aphrodite, our hotel had not been remodeled and was rather a dump. Its only redeeming feature was that it was cheap.
We checked in, got our schedule of spa treatments we had signed up for, got our card for dinner and our card for breakfast and went to our small room and unpacked. Then we went searching for items which were listed as coming with the room, such as a bathrobe for going to the spa and a hair dryer.We got those finally and walked around town a bit. We then went back, changed to swim suits and headed across the elevated walkway. We had to figure out the system for the locker room. We handed in what we called our "dance cards", got a key to the locker and a sheet. You then go in, put your robe in the locker and go through to the spa part. It was really quite spectacular. It had two very large stainless steel pools. One was pretty warm and the other a bit cooler for swimming. Both had various jets and waterfalls which changed about every ten minutes. There would be jets on your back, then current parts of the pool where the current would push you around. The trick became to get to the place where the back massage jets were when they came on. It was sort of like the kids game where you go around the chairs until the music stops. We did this, interspersed with sauna, steam baths, aromatherapy rooms, wraps in sheets and wool blankets, etc. for the next few days. Every once in a while we would have a treatment such as a whirlpool bath (like a big hot tub), a magic massage bed (which involves you getting wrapped in a sheet and blanket and lying on a cot which then began to massage your back with large rollers which would go up and down your back and legs), and a "Biarritz" bath, which involves getting in this large tub, naked, while this young lady turns on jets (153 of them, which exercise your meridians). The Biarritz bath looked at first like some sort of strange water boarding torture, but it felt very good. We also had two massages each. By the time we got through all this, all of our stress was gone.
Dinner was back at the Velke Fatra. They explained in German, Slovak, French and several other languages, but not English, the system for dinner, which is that you order dinner for the next day that evening. Since we had just arrived, we got what they had, which was a slice of ham and vegetables rolled in chicken, potatoes, vegetables, salad bar. It was not bad. Little did we suspect that it was to be our best dinner the whole time we were there. We had ordered "half board" which meant we had paid for dinner and breakfast and were on our own for lunch. We also ordered a bottle of quite good wine for about $6. We got the menu for the next night and made our choice. Unfortunately they sounded much better in German or Slovak than they turned out to be.
Rajecke Tepliceis is quite close to the Czech and Polish borders and not far from the Austrian border. About two thirds of the visitors are foreign. From languages I heard, I would say that the majority of the visitors were from Germany, with Poland a second. We never heard anyone speaking English as their native tongue. Still we got along pretty well and managed to understand most of what was meant through patching together various languages.
We had mixed weather, with a fair amount of drizzle. It was not nearly as cold as we expected. We did see snow on peaks around there and the snow level was not much higher up the hills than our elevation. However we got a chance to walk around in the area. One day we went to a local seafood restaurant, called the Fisherman's Bastion, for lunch. It was on an island in a lake. We had good trout,which is a local specialty from the mountain streams.
Charles and Susan Routh
Namestie SNP 23
81101 Bratislava 1
Slovakia
Tel: +421 9/11335672 (Charles)
+421 9/14 220 832 (Susan)
email: crouth@gsblaw.com
charlesrouth@chello.sk
Thursday, October 26, 2006
Our Trip to the Police
Written October 27, 2006
Things had been going far too well. The students have been good, eager and interested in the classes. Bratislava has turned out to be a great place to live, with a vibrant cultural life, great music, excellent restaurants and easy to get around. We have done some traveling (Vienna, Nitra and the local area for a wine festival so far) and plan more. (Vienna again tomorrow and Budapest next week during the National Holiday here). The weather has been fantastic, with sunny warm days almost every day. Slovakia has excellent, unheralded wine, which is quite cheap. The beer is great and cheaper than water in restaurants.
However we knew we had to go to the police to register for a temporary residency permit. We had heard horror stories of the bureaucratic run around, but hey I'm a lawyer and used to bureaucracy. We assembled all the paper work ( birth certificates, wedding certificates, certificates that we do not have tuberculosis, syphilis or AIDS, certificates that we have health insurance, etc., etc. etc. ) The excellent people in the local Fulbright office translated all of this into Slovakian. We were all ready to go when we discovered that we needed two more papers, a copy of our lease and an official certification that our landlord actually owned the flat he was renting to us. Again we were ready to go, when we discovered that the last two papers had to be Notarized, which is not the same as a notary in the States. So back for more ribbons and fancy seals.
Finally today all the material was assembled, double checked and off we go. The Police office for foreigners is in Petrzalka, which has the reputation of block after block of grey run down apartment blocks which are holdovers of the Communist days. Actually it is not as bad as its reputation. There are broad boulevards, lots of parks and sports fields, etc. The grey apartments are being spiffed up with brightly colored paint. However it is not a big tourist attraction to say the least.
Well this morning we visited the police to get our temporary residency permit.We left pretty early to go by bus because we felt sure we knew the route because of the excellent website based transportation information. That did not work quite as well as it had before and we ended up hoofing quite a ways but finally found it only to see a long line. But we had until 12 so we did not worry too much until time kept going by and the line moved slowly. Finally it ended up in a dead heat between the line and the clock moving to 12:00. We won by a nose and just got in before they closed the door for good. (The police office is only open Monday, Wednesday and Friday until noon.) We ended up speaking with a nice young woman who spoke a little English, which is more than the others. She went through the papers with a fine tooth comb. There was a question about the term of Susan's health insurance, which we were able to answer and we thought we were home free. But I think they are required to find an error and finally she did. You see we are required to have a notarized copy of the lease and a notarized copy of the landlord's ownership papers. We had those but we did not have two copies of them, one for each of us. You would think that simply putting a note in the file to look in the other file would be enough or even a photo copy of the notarized copy. You would underestimate the love of bureacracy and paper of the Bratislava police.
Maybe she had pity on us or maybe because we were the last ones of the day, but she did accept the papers, told us we would get the residency permit but to bring the papers when we came again to pick up the residency card. And yes we have to stand in line again to get the card after we get a letter informing us to come in and get the card.
I should not complain too much. Apparently the line at the American Embassy to get a visa is even worse than this line.
Charles and Susan Routh
Namestie SNP 23
81101 Bratislava 1
Slovakia
Tel: 09/11335672 (Charles)
09/14 220 832 (Susan)
email: crouth@gsblaw.com
charlesrouth@chello.sk
Things had been going far too well. The students have been good, eager and interested in the classes. Bratislava has turned out to be a great place to live, with a vibrant cultural life, great music, excellent restaurants and easy to get around. We have done some traveling (Vienna, Nitra and the local area for a wine festival so far) and plan more. (Vienna again tomorrow and Budapest next week during the National Holiday here). The weather has been fantastic, with sunny warm days almost every day. Slovakia has excellent, unheralded wine, which is quite cheap. The beer is great and cheaper than water in restaurants.
However we knew we had to go to the police to register for a temporary residency permit. We had heard horror stories of the bureaucratic run around, but hey I'm a lawyer and used to bureaucracy. We assembled all the paper work ( birth certificates, wedding certificates, certificates that we do not have tuberculosis, syphilis or AIDS, certificates that we have health insurance, etc., etc. etc. ) The excellent people in the local Fulbright office translated all of this into Slovakian. We were all ready to go when we discovered that we needed two more papers, a copy of our lease and an official certification that our landlord actually owned the flat he was renting to us. Again we were ready to go, when we discovered that the last two papers had to be Notarized, which is not the same as a notary in the States. So back for more ribbons and fancy seals.
Finally today all the material was assembled, double checked and off we go. The Police office for foreigners is in Petrzalka, which has the reputation of block after block of grey run down apartment blocks which are holdovers of the Communist days. Actually it is not as bad as its reputation. There are broad boulevards, lots of parks and sports fields, etc. The grey apartments are being spiffed up with brightly colored paint. However it is not a big tourist attraction to say the least.
Well this morning we visited the police to get our temporary residency permit.We left pretty early to go by bus because we felt sure we knew the route because of the excellent website based transportation information. That did not work quite as well as it had before and we ended up hoofing quite a ways but finally found it only to see a long line. But we had until 12 so we did not worry too much until time kept going by and the line moved slowly. Finally it ended up in a dead heat between the line and the clock moving to 12:00. We won by a nose and just got in before they closed the door for good. (The police office is only open Monday, Wednesday and Friday until noon.) We ended up speaking with a nice young woman who spoke a little English, which is more than the others. She went through the papers with a fine tooth comb. There was a question about the term of Susan's health insurance, which we were able to answer and we thought we were home free. But I think they are required to find an error and finally she did. You see we are required to have a notarized copy of the lease and a notarized copy of the landlord's ownership papers. We had those but we did not have two copies of them, one for each of us. You would think that simply putting a note in the file to look in the other file would be enough or even a photo copy of the notarized copy. You would underestimate the love of bureacracy and paper of the Bratislava police.
Maybe she had pity on us or maybe because we were the last ones of the day, but she did accept the papers, told us we would get the residency permit but to bring the papers when we came again to pick up the residency card. And yes we have to stand in line again to get the card after we get a letter informing us to come in and get the card.
I should not complain too much. Apparently the line at the American Embassy to get a visa is even worse than this line.
Charles and Susan Routh
Namestie SNP 23
81101 Bratislava 1
Slovakia
Tel: 09/11335672 (Charles)
09/14 220 832 (Susan)
email: crouth@gsblaw.com
charlesrouth@chello.sk
Monday, September 25, 2006
We arrive in Bratislava
Sent September 25, 2006
Well, we have been in Bratislava for a little over a week now and all is going pretty well. We have an apartment very conveniently located which is surprisingly large. It even has two bathrooms, two bedrooms, one of which is a study and guest bedroom. The kitchen is very nice, with refrigerator, dishwasher (which is not working yet) glass cooktop and a convection oven, with granite counter tops. We have a great view, of the castle, roofs of Bratislava, many spires of churches and the hills in the distance. It is literally five minutes from the opera house (we timed it). We went to the opera last Monday and saw a very good production of Don Giovanni. (it is the month of the Dons, with Don Carlo and Don Juan coming up in the next two weeks. Much of the rest of the week was spent in a Fulbright orientation and language lessons. We now know more Slovakian than before but we still have a long way to go. Friday night we saw the ballet, the Corsair. A huge cast and very good dancing. It was a very athletic ballet. Thursday night we had a reception in our honor at the American Ambassador’s home, Saturday we had a massive shopping trip to Ikea, which is located in the suburbs and got some things to outfit the flat. We had anticipated going on a boat trip on the Danube with the International Women’s Club on Saturday night, but we could not find where the boat was located and thus “missed the boat”.
Today we took a bus to Modra, which is a wine town in the foothills of the Small Carpathians about 25 km. from Bratislava. It was the annual harvest festival and it was quite something. It was pretty crowded with booths selling various handicrafts, traditional food, and lots of drink, such as burciak, a thick sweet, half fermented grape cider. It tastes like a good hard cider. We saw lots of folk dancing in traditional clothes, with musicians. It seems like every small town has its dance troupe, which put on quite a show.
I have been preparing for the first class, which starts next Wednesday. I have been to the University twice so far and plan to go tomorrow. This is being written Sunday evening, Sept. 24. Hopefully you will get this tomorrow. One problem we have been having is that we do not have Internet connection yet. If you get this, it means we now have a connection.
Well, we have been in Bratislava for a little over a week now and all is going pretty well. We have an apartment very conveniently located which is surprisingly large. It even has two bathrooms, two bedrooms, one of which is a study and guest bedroom. The kitchen is very nice, with refrigerator, dishwasher (which is not working yet) glass cooktop and a convection oven, with granite counter tops. We have a great view, of the castle, roofs of Bratislava, many spires of churches and the hills in the distance. It is literally five minutes from the opera house (we timed it). We went to the opera last Monday and saw a very good production of Don Giovanni. (it is the month of the Dons, with Don Carlo and Don Juan coming up in the next two weeks. Much of the rest of the week was spent in a Fulbright orientation and language lessons. We now know more Slovakian than before but we still have a long way to go. Friday night we saw the ballet, the Corsair. A huge cast and very good dancing. It was a very athletic ballet. Thursday night we had a reception in our honor at the American Ambassador’s home, Saturday we had a massive shopping trip to Ikea, which is located in the suburbs and got some things to outfit the flat. We had anticipated going on a boat trip on the Danube with the International Women’s Club on Saturday night, but we could not find where the boat was located and thus “missed the boat”.
Today we took a bus to Modra, which is a wine town in the foothills of the Small Carpathians about 25 km. from Bratislava. It was the annual harvest festival and it was quite something. It was pretty crowded with booths selling various handicrafts, traditional food, and lots of drink, such as burciak, a thick sweet, half fermented grape cider. It tastes like a good hard cider. We saw lots of folk dancing in traditional clothes, with musicians. It seems like every small town has its dance troupe, which put on quite a show.
I have been preparing for the first class, which starts next Wednesday. I have been to the University twice so far and plan to go tomorrow. This is being written Sunday evening, Sept. 24. Hopefully you will get this tomorrow. One problem we have been having is that we do not have Internet connection yet. If you get this, it means we now have a connection.
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